The TP-Link AC750 dual-band Wi-Fi extender generally sells for about $25, but at $19.50 (for just a few more hours today!), it’s an even better bargain.

Setting up the TP-Link extender is a snap: just plug it into a wall outlet, then follow the online setup wizard to connect it to your home Wi-Fi network and configure its “extended” network. An LED indicator will warn you if the extender is too far from your main wireless router.

Update [2:20pm ET]: Amazon’s $19.50 “lightning” deal for the TP-Link AC750 extender just ended, but the new $25 price tag is still a pretty good deal.

Update [4/5/2017]: Hooray, the $19.50 sale price is back! (Who knows for how long, though.)

Check out the TP-Link AC750 dual-band Wi-Fi extender on Amazon!

If you buy something through our Deals posts, we may earn some money. Thanks for the support!

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Named the “best router for most people” by The Wirecutter, the TP-Link Archer C7 boasts a total of 1.75 Gbps of bandwidth (that’s pretty healthy) over its dual bands (2.4 GHz and 5 GHz). You can also plug your streaming TV boxes and game consoles directly into the C7 using its four Ethernet ports, or share storage or a printer via the twin USB ports. I’ve had my Archer C7 for a few years now, and I’m pretty happy with it.

Update [3/16/17]: The price is on its way up again, currently at $85.

Check out the TP-Link Archer C7 on Amazon!

Read more: The Wirecutter

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TP-Link AC750 Wi-Fi range extender ($25)

What is it: A compact gizmo that plugs directly into a power outlet and boosts the range of your home Wi-Fi network.
Who it’s for: Anyone who has Wi-Fi dead spots in their house.
Why you should snag it: I bought my own Wi-Fi extender earlier this year for about $100, and I thought that was a pretty good deal. But $25? That’s a no-brainer.

Cambridge SoundWorks OontZ Angle 3 Wireless Bluetooth Speaker ($28)

What is it: A small portable speaker that connects wirelessly to your iPhone, iPad or Android phone, perfect for playing tunes on the go. It also doubles as a speakerphone thanks to its built-in mic.
Who it’s for: Music lovers who want to take their tunes to the park, the pool (yes, the speaker is water-resistant) or just about anywhere else.
Why you should snag it: The Oontz Angle 3 Bluetooth speaker checks all the boxes—light, small, stereo, sweet sound, and (as of this week) 72 percent off.

Roku Express ($29)

What it is: A palm-sized, easy-to-use TV set top box that lets you stream Netflix, Hulu, Amazon, and Google Play videos (among other streaming video services) to your HDTV.
Who it’s for: Anyone who’s still leery about streaming TV shows and movies over the Internet to their TV.
Why you should snag it: Roku’s streaming set-top boxes are among the easiest to use, particularly beginners, and at just $29, the Express is one of the best streaming video bargains out there.

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub ($10)

What it is: A tiny USB hub that plugs into your laptop’s USB port, giving you four new USB ports in the process.
Who it’s for: Any laptop user who wants to plug in (say) a mouse, a keyboard, and external hard drive and a printer, all at the same time.
Why you should snag it: There’s no easier, cheaper way to give your laptop (or any Mac or PC, for that matter) four new USB ports.

Click here for more great tech deals!

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A Wi-Fi extender can give your existing router a much-needed helping hand, and Amazon is selling TP-Link’s AC750 range extender for just $20.

Update (12/16/2016): The $20 sale for the AC750 has ended, but the new $25 price tag is still a pretty good deal.

About the size of a plug-in air freshener, the AC750 plugs into a power outlet, picks up your router’s Wi-Fi signal and extends it to areas in your house that your current router can’t reach. This dual-band extender supports both slower, longer-range 2.4GHz and speedy, shorter-range 5GHz frequency bands (same as most of your Macs, PCs and handsets), while a “Smart Signal” light will flash if you install the AC750 too far from your primary router.

Check out the TP-Link AC750 Dual Band Wi-Fi Range Extender

Note: This deal expires after December 15, 2016.

If you buy something through our Deals posts, we may earn some money. Thank you for your support!

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Hi Mary Ellen! That’s a tough situation. Normally, I’d suggest saving money by simply moving your Wi-Fi router closer to your Roku. But since we’re dealing with a weak Wi-Fi signal that’s shared, I’m guessing that moving the router closer to your condo isn’t an option (although it doesn’t hurt to ask, right?).

All that said, I actually do have a few of suggestions that might help you squeeze a bit more bandwidth out of your weak Wi-Fi signal, starting with…

Try a Wi-Fi Extender

As long as your condo’s shared Wi-Fi router isn’t too far away, a wireless extender may do the trick. A Wi-Fi extender piggybacks onto to an existing Wi-Fi access point to create its own local network, which essentially extending the range of the original network.

A Wi-Fi extender piggybacks onto to an existing Wi-Fi access point to create its own local network.

Setting up a Wi-Fi extender is easy. All you need to do is power it up, then use the extender’s configuration utility to choose a nearby Wi-Fi signal to extend. If the router you’re trying to extend is locked, you’ll need its password. You can then give the extender its own SSID (the name the extender uses to identify itself when you’re searching for Wi-Fi signals) and connect your Roku and other devices to the extender rather than your condo’s Wi-Fi router. You could also just keep the same SSID as the shared router, but doing so would make it tough to tell whether your devices are connected to the extender or the (weaker) shared signal.

While Wi-Fi extenders are easy to use, they’re not necessarily cheap. The one I use in my Brooklyn apartment goes for about $100, and the cheapest extender recommended by The Wirecutter costs about $65.

The other issue is performance. If your condo’s shared Wi-Fi router is too far away or if there’s too many other competing Wi-Fi signals nearby (which I’m guessing is the case, given that you live in a condo), an extender may not be able to connect to the shared router—or, even if it can, the boosted signal might not be strong enough for smooth streaming video.

Unfortunately, the only way to find out if a Wi-Fi extender will work in your particular situation is to try one, so you might want to make sure you’re protected by a 30-day return policy before you break out your credit card.

Note: If you do decide to go for a Wi-Fi extender, you should do your best to ensure that the extender uses one frequency band to connect to the main Wi-Fi router and another for connecting to other Wi-Fi devices, like your Roku. Most Wi-Fi extenders these days are dual-band, giving you the choice or either the speedy but short-range 5 Ghz band, or the longer-range but slower 2.4 Ghz band. If your extender uses the same frequency band for connecting both to your condo’s shared Wi-Fi and connecting to your Roku, you’ll degrade wireless performance for everyone on the network, not just you. If all that sounds complicated, well, it is; luckily, Wirecutter has tips (scroll down to the paragraph that begins “The main problem with…”) on the best way to configure your extender.

Use an Ethernet cable

If your shared Wi-Fi router is too far away for a Wi-Fi extender to work, you could try another option: a direct wired connection.

You can always just connect your Roku (or Apple TV, pictured here) to a router directly via Ethernet.

Simply put, you could connect an Ethernet cable to one of the Ethernet ports on the shared Wi-Fi router and then string the cable all the way to your condo. You could then connect the cable directly to your Roku—or, even better, connect it to your own Wi-Fi router, thus creating your own local Wi-Fi network.

The upside of using an wired Ethernet cable is that you won’t have to worry about signal loss between the shared Wi-Fi router and your condo. (There’s always a little signal loss whenever you’re dealing with a lengthy Ethernet cable, but it’s minuscule compared to how much Wi-Fi signals degrade over a comparable distance.)

The downside, of course, is convincing your building manager to let you string Ethernet cable from the shared Wi-Fi router to your unit, plus the hassle of actually running the cable.

Try a powerline networking kit

If dealing with all that Ethernet cable sounds daunting, here’s an idea that might sound more tempting: using the existing electrical wiring in your building to extend your condo’s Wi-Fi signal. A “powerline” networking kit generally comes with a pair of small adapters, each with their own Ethernet ports. You connect one adapter to the main Wi-Fi router via an Ethernet cable (a short cable this time), then plug the adapter itself into a nearby power outlet. Next, you take the second adapter, plug it into another power outlet in a different room (or a different unit, in this case), connect it via Ethernet to your Roku, another Wi-Fi router or any Ethernet-enabled device, and voilà—you’re connected.

Powerline adapters let you set up data networks using standard electrical outlets, but you’ll pay a price in terms of performance. (Image credit: Zytel)

Powerline networking kits are generally a bit cheaper than Wi-Fi extenders (Wirecutter’s top pick is only about $85), and since you only need to plug them into exiting power outlets, there’s no need to string Ethernet cable.

Again, though, you’ll need to check with your building manager to see if they’ll let you connect a powerline adapter to the condo’s shared Wi-Fi router. Also, as with Wi-Fi extenders, powerline data performance will suffer the further the two adapters are from each other.

Other factors that might slow a powerline network’s performance to a crawl include whether the powerline network would need to jump from one electrical circuit to another (probably yes, since the condo’s shared Wi-Fi router isn’t located in your unit), as well as how many other electrical appliances are plugged into those circuits (a lot, I’m guessing).

Downshift your Netflix bandwidth usage

OK, so let’s say the Wi-Fi extender didn’t work, powerline isn’t an option, and you struck out with the super when you asked about Ethernet. Now what?

Change your Netflix bandwidth settings could help smooth out video playback over a weak Wi-Fi signal.

Well, if you use your Roku to watch Netflix videos, there’s another option: lower the amount of bandwidth Netflix needs for streaming. Doing so might let you stream Netflix movies and TV shows over a weak Wi-Fi signal without buffering, although you’ll sacrifice video quality—potentially a lot of video quality—in the process.

Just log in to your Netflix account on a desktop Web browser, hover your mouse over your profile name in the top-right corner of the page, click Your Account in the menu that appears, then click “Playback settings” under the My Profile heading.

Next, pick a setting. Try “Medium” first to see if that plays smoothly; if not, downshift to “Low.” (These playback settings will transfer over to the Netflix app on Roku, by the way.) You might have to settle for VHS-level video quality, but at least the picture won’t freeze every few seconds.

Use (or rather, don’t use) your Android or iOS device as a wireless hotspot 

So, what about tethering your Roku to your hotspot-enabled Android or iOS device—would that work? Perhaps, but unless you’re fine with massive overage charges on your wireless bill, I’d advise against it.

Why? Because streaming video over a cellular data connection could easily blow through your monthly mobile data allowance in a matter of hours, particularly if you’re watching HD-quality video. Even if you’re lucking enough to have an unlimited 4G data plan, your unlimited data usually doesn’t extend to using your phone as a hotspot.

Hope this helps, Mary Ellen, and good luck!

Anyone else have suggestions with how to deal with weak wi-fi signals in shared spaces? If so, post ’em below in the comments.

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Can’t get a straight answer from our carrier (Verizon); of course, they want us to sign up for international calling and data.

If he leaves his phone in “airplane mode” during the day—to take pictures, mainly—but turns on Wi-Fi in a free hotspot at night, will he be able to upload photos free of charge to Facebook or email (for example)?

We are using Viber for calling/texting, and Skype for online chatting. I am such a technosaur… :/

Hi Carol! Actually, you don’t sound like a technosaur at all. You already know about overseas data and calling networks (and that “roaming” on them costs a fortune), you’re savvy about “airplane mode” (which switches off all of your smartphone’s antennas and wireless transmitters), and you’ve figured out how to save on SMS and phone charges with free chat apps like Skype and Viber.

Not too shabby, if you ask me.

There’s nothing stopping you from turning Wi-Fi back on after activating “airplane mode.”

Anyway, yes—your son absolutely can upload photos to Facebook over free Wi-Fi hotspots in Japan, or anywhere abroad.

Wi-Fi hotspots have nothing to do with cellular voice or data networks (although some cellular carriers, like AT&T, offer Wi-Fi hotspots that subscribers can use), and as long as your son’s phone is set to “airplane mode,” there’s no chance he’ll run up massive mobile charges by accidentally roaming on a Japanese cellular network.

And here’s a tip: both Android phones (like the Droid Razr Maxx) and iPhones will let you turn on both Wi-Fi and “airplane mode” at the same time, meaning there’s no need to repeatedly switch “airplane mode” off and on to connect to a nearby Wi-Fi hotspot.

Here’s how…

For Android phones:

• Tap Settings, then tap More under the “Wireless & Networks” setting.
• Tap the “Airplane mode” checkbox (when you do, you should see a little airplane icon in the top corner of the screen), then tap Back.
• Flip the switch next to Wi-Fi back on, then make sure you still see the airplane-mode icon at the top of the screen.

You can also turn on both Wi-Fi and “airplane mode” on an iPhone.

(Note: the instructions above may vary depending on the make and model of your Android phone.)

For iPhone:

• Tap Settings, then switch Airplane Mode to “On.”
• Tap Wi-Fi, tap the switch to turn Wi-Fi back on, then connect to any nearby network. Again, you should still see the airplane-mode icon at the top of the screen.

Still have Wi-Fi questions? Post ’em below, or send me an email.

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William writes: Actually, this question is for the benefit of my 84-year-old mother. She has DSL from Verizon, which came with a Westell modem/router. It is in the living room (connected by a cable) to her desktop computer. The problem is the wireless signal.

While it’s fine in most of her apartment, it’s a little weaker in her bedroom. (There are two walls and about 30 feet between her bedroom and the router). This wasn’t an issue until I got her an iPad for her birthday. She really would like to do things like watch Netflix in her bedroom, but it’s often just a little too slow.

Is there anything I can do to boost/amplify the signal to make it more powerful?

Hi William! There are actually three things you could do to boost your home Wi-Fi signal, although I’m guessing my third suggestion will work the best in your mother’s particular case.

Option No. 1: Move your Wi-Fi router

 
If you’re not getting a good signal in one part of your house, try moving your router to another room—say, one that’s more centrally located, or at least closer to the room where you use your Wi-Fi-enabled gadgets the most.

Of course, the only problem with this advice is that your Wi-Fi router is usually tethered to your cable or DSL hookup, and most of us don’t have the luxury of cable outlets in every room.

That said, if you have a cable connection or phone line in your bedroom, you could try moving your modem and Wi-Fi-router there to see if that improves your overall reception.

Now, just moving your wireless router might not do the trick—but hey, it’s worth a try, especially if you’d rather not spend more money on additional gadgets.

Option No. 2: Buy a new Wi-Fi router

 
Have you been using the same wireless router since the early oughts? If so, it might be time to pony up for a new model. A few years back, I swapped my aging Apple AirPort wireless base station for the then-latest version, and noticed an immediate uptick in performance.

You should be able to pick up a new Wi-Fi router for well under $100. (Apple’s AirPort Extreme is considerably pricier at about $180.) Also, make sure to get one with “dual-band” wireless—that is, two wireless radios rather than just one, which will help your Wi-Fi signal compete with nearby microwave ovens and cordless phones.

Unfortunately, William, a new router might not be an option for your mother, given that she’s been issued a combination modem/router by Verizon. In that case, I recommend that you…

Option No. 3: Try a wireless extender

 
These little gizmos look almost exactly the same as your standard wireless router—except that instead of creating a new Wi-Fi network, they extend the range of an existing one. Think of them as Wi-Fi repeaters, perfect for amplifying your home wireless signal from room to room.

A wireless extender is relatively easy to install; just place it in a room with a weak Wi-Fi signal, plug it into a power outlet, and the device should be able to detect and boost your signal with a minimum of fuss. Got a big house? Try placing two or more Wi-Fi extenders strategically throughout your home.

Expect to pay less than $100 for a PC-compatible wireless extender; Mac users, meanwhile, can snap up Apple’s $99 AirPort Express router, which doubles as a wireless repeater.

Hope this helps, William—please check back with us and let us know how it goes!

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[Updated 3/12/2018] Like the idea of wherever-you-go Wi-Fi? Consider a Wi-Fi hotspot, a device that bathes you in a personal cloud of wireless data, perfect for on-the-go laptop and tablet users. So, how do mobile Wi-Fi hotspots work, what are their drawbacks, and how much do they cost? Read on for answers to those questions, and more.

What exactly is a mobile wi-fi hotspot, anyway?

Think of it as a tiny, battery-powered Wi-Fi base station that’s small enough to fit in the palm of your hand. Generally speaking, mobile wi-fi hotspots come in two forms: either built into a smartphone, like an iPhone or an Android phone, or as a standalone portable gadget, often no larger than a small stack of credit cards. Indeed, if you own a relatively new iPhone or Android handset, you probably already have a hotspot in your pocket.

Not only do most newer iPhone and Android phones comes with built-in hotspots, you can also get a portable standalone hotspot, like this one.

How do mobile Wi-Fi hotspots work?

Well, here’s the thing about mobile wi-fi hotspots: they won’t just work anywhere. Put simply, a portable hotspot taps into 3G and/or 4G cellular networks, just like a smartphone does. Once it’s zeroed in on cellular data connection, a mobile hotspot can share that connection via Wi-Fi with nearby laptops, tablets, game consoles, or anything that can connect to a Wi-Fi network. No cellular connection? No data, which means a mobile hotspot won’t do you much good if you’re deep in the woods with no cellular signal.

Huh. So what would I need a mobile hotspot for?

Well, here’s a question for you: Do you ever use your laptop on the road? If so, you can use a mobile hotspot to connect your laptop to the Internet, without having to hunt around for a public Wi-Fi hotspot. And since multiple Wi-Fi gadgets can connect to a single mobile hotspot simultaneously, you could be surfing on your laptop while a friend streams music on her Wi-Fi-only iPad.

Wait, does that mean anyone can connect to my mobile hotspot, even strangers?

Just like your Wi-Fi hotspot at home, most mobile Wi-Fi hotspots come with a full suite of security tools, including WEP and WPA encryption. That means as long as you’ve enabled your wireless security and set a password, your hotspot should be reasonably safe from hackers and freeloaders.

Related: 7 (more) of your mobile Wi-Fi hotspot questions, answered

Do I need a wireless plan to go with my mobile hotspot?

Yes, you do, and the details vary depending on your carrier and your current data plan. For example, if you have a data plan with a monthly cap, any data used by your mobile hotspot may be counted against your monthly data allowance. If you’re on an unlimited plan, your hotspot use may be capped, or your carrier may “throttle” (or slow down) your hotspot data speeds, either across the board or after you’ve used a certainly amount of hotspot data. In any case, make sure to check with your carrier and read the fine print before you go nuts with your hotspot usage.

How much battery life can I expect out of a mobile hotspot?

That depends on the device, of course—but in my experience, you’ll typically get about four hours of juice from a stand-alone mobile hotspot. Your mileage will also vary depending on the strength of the wireless signal (the weaker the signal, the more power it takes to lock onto it), as well as whether you’re using just a little data (for, say, surfing the web) or a lot (streaming YouTube videos, for example).

Using your smartphone as a mobile hotspot will generally get you a little more battery life than you would on a dedicated portable hotspot—think four or five hours rather than three or four. Then again, draining your smartphone’s battery while using it as a hotspot means no more phone calls, either.

I’d like to go ahead and use my iPhone or Android phone as a mobile hotspot. How do I get started?

First, make sure you’re signed up for a data plan that allows for mobile hotspot use. Just check your account online, or call your carrier and ask.

All set? Next, you’ll need to enable and configure your phone’s mobile hotspot. Don’t worry; it’s a lot easier than it sounds.

To enable an iPhone mobile hotspot

1. Tap Settings, Personal Hotspot, then flick on the Personal Hotspot switch.
2. Next, tap Wi-Fi password, then create a password. The password must be at least eight characters
3. long, And … that’s it! Now, anyone who wants to use your iPhone as a hotspot simply needs to open
4. their menu of available Wi-Fi networks, select “iPhone,” then enter your hotspot password.

To enable an Android mobile hotspot

Note: These instructions are for Google’s “stock” version of Android. If you’re using a Samsung phone or another make of Android phone, the exact steps may differ.

1. Tap Settings, Network & Internet, then Hotspot & Tethering.
2. Tap Set up Wi-Fi Hotspot to create a name and a password for your hotspot.
3. Go back to the Hotspot & Tethering screen, then switch on the Wi-Fi Hotspot setting.

Wait, I have more questions!

No problem; just post ’em below, and I’ll get back to you.

Bonus tip

Want to know more about the ins and outs of Wi-Fi in general? Check out this handy infographic.

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Hipmunk, a site that lets travellers search for and compare upcoming flights using a colorful, easy-to-read timeline, now displays a little wireless icon next to flights with on-board Wi-Fi. There doesn’t appear to be a way to filter your travel results for wireless flights only, but the telltale Wi-Fi icons are easy to spot. (The feature will also land on Hipmunk’s iPhone app in a future software update, the company promises.)

Once you’ve ID’d your preferred wireless flights, just click them to start building your trip. All set? With a final click, Hipmunk sends you to Orbitz or the appropriate airline site to complete the booking process. Nice.

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The idea behind the Eye-Fi memory card is simple. Equipped with its own little Wi-Fi antenna, the Eye-Fi replaces the SD (short for “Secure Digital”) memory card that sits in your digital camera, and then connects to a nearby Wi-Fi network and wirelessly sends any pictures or videos you shoot to your PC or Mac.

While it’s a clever concept, the Eye-Fi itself isn’t all that new; indeed, the first Eye-Fi cards landed in stores about four years ago. But for a variety of reasons, I never quite ended up getting an Eye-Fi card for myself—namely because I figured it would be too pricey, or too much of a bother to set up.

But having finally grown tired of continually prying the memory card out of my Sony digital camera, sliding it into a USB memory card reader (which, by the way, I usually have to fish out of a cluttered desk drawer), and plugging the thing into my iMac, I decided to break down and buy my very first Eye-Fi card—to my surprise, just $49 (for the cheapest 4 GB version).

Setup couldn’t be simpler. After tearing open the Eye-Fi box, I found the little memory card sitting in a small USB dongle; as per the instructions, I plugged the dongle into my iMac, and within seconds I’d installed the Eye-Fi desktop software.

The Eye-Fi's easy-to-use desktop software.

The on-screen setup instructions then stepped me through the process of setting up an online Eye-Fi account (only your email address and a password are required), connecting the Eye-Fi card to my home Wi-Fi network (the software automatically detected my Wi-Fi router, asking only for my network password), designating where I’d like my new photos deposited on my hard drive (you can select any directory you wish, or send pictures directly to a photo management app like iPhoto), and picking which, if any, online photo sharing services you’d like to enable (including Flickr, Apple’s MobileMe, Google’s Picasa, and Facebook).

Once I’d finished with the setup process (which took all of about five minutes), I replaced the memory card in my Sony camera with the Eye-Fi and squeezed off a few test photos—and within seconds, the snapshots began popping up on my hard drive, no card-swapping required. Nice.

Of course, you’re not always going to be in range of your home Wi-Fi network, which is why the Eye-Fi card will let you transfer your photos directly to an iPhone, iPad, or Android smartphone. All you need to do is install the free Eye-Fi app for iOS or Android onto your handset, and then configure the Eye-Fi to send snapshots directly to your phone’s photo roll—and from there, you’ll be able to view, email, and otherwise share your latest pictures within a few minutes or seconds.

Just insert the Eye-Fi into your camera's SD memory slot and start snapping away.

Another nifty feature is called “Endless Memory,” which automatically deletes old photos off the Eye-Fi once it’s filled to a set capacity, and only after a given picture has been uploaded to your PC—meaning you’d never have to worry about the Eye-Fi running out of storage space.

So, will the Eye-Fi put a strain on your camera’s battery? No, says the card’s manufacturer, which claims that the Eye-Fi’s “advanced power management” system will “optimize” battery use. That said, I’ve noticed the battery meter on my Sony DSC-HX5 quickly drain during my limited testing Monday, although that could simply be a issue with the aging battery I’m using.

Last but not least: What if something goes wrong with the Eye-Fi’s Wi-Fi connection? Will your photos be trapped in your camera? Well, no—or at least not if you save the USB dongle that comes with the Eye-Fi. If all else fails, just take the Eye-Fi out of your camera, put it in the USB dongle, insert the dongle into your PC’s USB port, and drag and drop your snapshots as you’d ordinarily do.

Have questions about the Eye-Fi? Let me know!

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